Discover Backwater Feast

It was early morning when my guide, Ravi, met me at the small jetty near my homestay. The mist still clung to the surface of the water, and the air was thick with the smell of wet earth and wood smoke from nearby homes. We climbed into a narrow wooden canoe, the kind that rocks gently with every movement, and set off toward a small fishing spot he knew.

“Have you ever thrown a net before?” Ravi asked with a mischievous grin.

I shook my head, clutching the heavy, coiled net he’d handed me. “I have, in the freezing waters of Finland. But this will be my first time fishing in the backwaters of Kerala,” I replied with a smile, my mind filled with anticipation of a novel experience.

We reached a quiet stretch. Somewhere, in the distance, a kingfisher called out. The only other melody was the soft splash of oars cutting through the water. Ravi showed me how to hold the net—balancing part of it on my shoulder and gripping the rest in my hands—before swinging it out in a smooth arc. His throw was a perfect circle on the water, the net sinking gracefully.

When it was my turn, I attempted to copy his movements. My net landed in a less-than-perfect blob, but to my surprise, I felt a sudden tug as I pulled it in. A silver fish kept jumping inside the mesh, desperate to escape. My first fresh catch experience in Kerala!

We continued fishing until we had a small basketful. Back onshore, Ravi’s wife, Meera, welcomed us into their courtyard kitchen, an outdoor cooking area right under the shade of the banana trees, with a wood fire crackling beneath a blackened clay pot. Meera cleaned the fish with swift, practiced hands, chatting in Malayalam, their native language, while Ravi translated.

Meera marinated the fish in a paste of turmeric, chili, garlic, and fresh coconut, the air filling with a spicy, mouthwatering aroma. The fish sizzled on the pan over the open flame, skin crisping to a golden brown. Meera wasted no time, stirring a coconut milk curry that let out the aroma of curry leaves mixed with tamarind. This was traditional Kerala cooking happening right before my eyes, and I felt lucky to be a witness. 

When we finally sat down to eat—on a low wooden table with banana leaves as our plates—the flavors were unlike anything I’d ever tasted. The fish was tender, smoky from the fire, with a perfect balance of heat and tang. Every bite seemed to carry the essence of the backwaters: fresh, earthy, and deeply comforting.

As I licked the last bit of curry from my fingers, I realized this had been more than a cooking class. It was a connection to a unique land with its warm and friendly people that nurtures a way of life that moves with the gentle pace of the tides. This was also my special kind of Alleppey food tour, a memory I’d cherish forever. 

I came to Alleppey expecting to be by the backwaters, revelling in its one-of-a-kind beauty. I left with the taste of the land lingering on my tongue.

Oh! I forgot to mention — I stayed at Akoya Beach Villa — a place that felt like a home away from home.